Between Blue Fire, Silence, and Human Resilience
Banyuwangi is often depicted in films as a place wrapped in mysticism stories of shamans and dark magic, seeming to follow its name everywhere. For years, that image stayed in my mind. Yet alongside it grew a quiet curiosity. I believe Banyuwangi was more than its myths. This corner of East Java holds extraordinary natural beauty, and for a long time, one dream stood above the rest: witnessing the Blue Fire of Kawah Ijen with my own eyes.
My introduction to East Java began in Banyuwangi. I chose to travel by train from Jakarta, a journey that took nearly sixteen hours. Long, yes! but far from dull. Outside the window, concrete cityscapes slowly give way to endless stretches of green rice fields, calm and grounding. For travelers short on time or with a bigger budget, flying directly to Banyuwangi Airport takes less than two hours.
I arrived at Banyuwangi Station around 7 pm Finding accommodation was effortless. The area around the station is filled with budget-friendly guesthouses, perfect for backpackers. After such a long journey, I ended my first night with a simple but memorable meal: Sego Tempong from a small food stall nearby.
It was my first taste of Banyuwangi and it left a strong impression. Steamed rice, boiled vegetables, fried tofu or tempeh, salted fish, and side dishes like black squid or fried chicken come together with a sambal that is intensely spicy yet surprisingly fresh. From the very first bite, Banyuwangi seemed to welcome me warmly. Combined with the friendliness of the locals helpful, informative, and genuinely kind I felt at home almost immediately.
The Journey to Ijen Crater
To experience the Blue Fire at its best, the journey must begin long before sunrise. Most treks start around 1 am from Paltuding Basecamp. The hours before departure are spent resting, showering, and preparing for the climb. Joining an open trip is often the most practical option, as it includes permits, logistics, and a guide who knows the terrain well.
Kawah Ijen is a relatively calm yet active volcano, surrounded by a dramatic landscape of mountains and plantations. The trek to the crater rim takes about two to four hours, depending on pace and conditions. Along the trail, several shelters provide resting spots quiet checkpoints that offer a moment of pause in the darkness.
The Blue Fire phenomenon appears between 2 am and 5 am, making timing crucial. Ijen Crater is widely known as the only place in the world where this natural blue flame can be seen. The glow is caused by sulfur gas igniting at extremely high temperatures, creating an otherworldly blue light against the night.
Ironically, despite traveling all this way, I didn't get to see the Blue Fire up close. That night, the number of visitors was overwhelming. Congestion along the trail, combined with delays within our group, meant we arrived too late. The line leading down to the Blue Fire area stretched endlessly, leaving no chance to descend further.
Yet I felt no regret.
As dawn approached, the sky slowly shifted - deep purples melted into soft oranges and pale blues. Standing there, exhausted but present, the moment felt deeply emotional. When the sun finally rose higher, the landscape revealed itself fully: rolling green hills surrounding a turquoise crater lake, beautiful and dangerous all at once.
One word captured it perfectly: breathtaking .
Even the descent felt magical. With every step down, the scenery unfolds endlessly, reminding me how generous nature can be when we take the time to witness it.
Beyond the Beauty: The Sulfur Miners of Ijen
Every day, these miners hike up the mountain, then descend steep paths into the crater. Using simple tools and minimal protection, they extract solid sulfur directly from the earth. The loads they carry can reach dozens of kilograms, all while breathing thick, toxic sulfur fumes.
Watching them work in person was humbling. Although some transport is now assisted by carts, the physical toll of their labor remains undeniable. Here, Ijen Crater reveals its stark contrast, geological wonder alongside human endurance.
This was the moment when the mountain stopped being just a destination and became a lesson.
The Legend of the “Jealous Mountain”
Locals often refer to Ijen as “Gunung Pencemburu” the Jealous Mountain. According to legend, Ijen stands alone, isolated from other peaks, and its name is believed to stem from the word meaning "alone" or "quiet" in Javanese. Many believe the crater's beauty is guarded by unseen spirits, and visitors are advised to mind their words and behavior while there.
This belief is not meant to instill fear, but respect. Ijen Crater is not merely a tourist attraction, it is a sacred landscape, one that reminds visitors to approach nature with humility.
Practical Notes for Visiting Ijen Crater
Prepare your body. Light exercise before your trip will help you handle the steep and uneven trail.
Consider joining an open trip. It simplifies permits, transportation, and navigation, especially for first-time visitors.
Visit during the dry season. June to September offers clearer skies, safer trails, and better chances to see both the Blue Fire and sunrise.
Wear proper protection. A respirator or gas mask is strongly recommended due to sulfur fumes.
Respect the miners and local beliefs. Avoid blocking paths, ask before taking photos, and treat the area with care.
Visiting Ijen Crater is not just about chasing the Blue Fire or watching the sun rise over a volcanic crater. It is about awareness of nature's power, of human resilience, and of our responsibility as travelers. In Ijen's silence, I found more than beauty. I found perspective.
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